Siena Football Club Stadium with the old city behind

Siena - 30th April 2017

 

We enjoyed a good day visiting the historic city of Siena. It is a city suited to walking with the sights all very close to each other and something interesting to see around almost every corner. Unlike other cities, chain stores have not taken hold and there are many little specialist shops, some dating back to the 1800s.

After a brief visit to a small shop to buy a light sweater for the unseasonably cold weather, we made our way to the Piazza del Campo, where we took lunch at a cafe-restaurant on the fringes of the square and to people watch on an epic square. We have been to Sienna on previous holidays, but it is a city that bears visiting many times. Towards, the end of the day, we caught the sound of drumming of a military rather than Ringo Starr style and followed the sound until we reached an old orrange building, with a covered courtyard, wherein two flag whirlers and a drummer were practicing for the forthcoming Paleo. An unexpected treat!

Siena is a beautiful hill city. It dates back to the Etruscans and was later conquered by the Romans. Unlike Arezzo and Perugia, it was not particularly well sited and of economic interest to the Romans because it was situated away from major roads and therefore the trade routes. Indeed, it was so remote, even Christianity started making inroads much later than in other parts of Italy. Economically, it finally began to prosper when occupied by the Lombards from the 6th to the 8th century, as a result of road building close to the city because the pre-existing Roman roads were exposed to raids by the Byzantine, and therefore now being on important trade routes.

After the Lombard’s defeat by Charlemagne, Siena came under the control of the Franks and later became a republic for a period of 400 years as Sienese families established themselves. In 1555 it was brought under seige and finally defeated by the combined forces of Florence and the Spanish. The King of Spain, who was in debt to the Medici family, then ‘sold’ Siena to pay off some the debt bringing it under the Duchy of Tuscany until the unification of Italy in the 18th century.

Today, the fruits of its wealth can be seen in the quality of its landmarks, the height of the ordinary buildings and the relatively wide roads. While Siena and its surrounding areas have no industry to speak of and being on a trade route is not as important when lorries whizz by on motorways, like most cities today, it has matured into a self-perpetuating existence, while becoming a major tourist destination.  

The majority of the famous buildings were built by the church with the most impressive being the Cathedral, which has the most exquisite exterior. Perhaps, a more famous attraction is not a building but the Piazza del Campo, which is a huge sloping square in the centre of Siena and the ‘course’, where the famous Palio di Siena is run, a horse race dating back to Medieval times. After three days of practice, ten horses representing ten of the seventeen local districts, chosen by a complex process, race around the edge of the Piazza with the crowds hemmed in the middle. It is a colourful affair with the horses led by drummers and flag twirlers before the race, all in medieval clothing.

(Click on the photos for larger size and full aspect)

 

Two tourists on the Piazza del Campo

  • Piazza Salimbeni

  • One of the numerous religious buildings in the city

  • Palazzo Publico

  • Flag twirling practice ahead of the Palio this Summer

  • View across the city

  • A paper shop - one of the numerous independent shops in the city