Two Japanese ladies in traditional dress. One of my favourite photos as rather than turning away and looking annoyed as we are used to in many countries, the ladies were happy to smile at the camera.

Kanazawa - Old Town

Kanazawa is a city of around 460,000 population to the north of Tokyo and is easily reached by bullet train. It has enjoyed a long history, far too long to summarise here, but what makes the city worth visiting is that unlike many of the Japanese cities, is that it was left untouched by bombing during the second world war and in a way, is more authentic than Kyoto. That is not to say that it is necessarily a more attractive place than Kyoto to visit, but a lot more of it's traditional architecture is preserved.

The name Kanazawa means "Marsh of Gold'. The province, paralling what occured continually in Europe, underwent many changes of rulers during it's history as power ebbed and waned between feudal Lords during the time of the Shogunate dynasties. During a period of stability starting in the early 16th century, called the Maede period, the city and Kagu Province, of which it was the capital, thrived. The population rose from around 5000 to around 100,000 by the year 1700.

As with medieval feudal societies in Europe, Japanese Lords ruled through power wielded on the back of their knights and their retainers. In Japan, these knights were called Samurai, who were rewarded for their fielty with land. So, when you are not warring, generally you are prospering and the Samurai families moved from Kanazawa Castle into the city and beyond, but with an obligation to keep the castle defended at all times.

Within the central traditional area of the city, there are 3 area known as the Temple, Samurai and Geisha areas. Interestingly, in the case of the Temple area, while there were indeed established as temples, they were also discrete garrison lodgings. Some of these temples are open to the public for tours, where the various false doors, hidden passageways and trap doors are revealed that would enable the defenders to gain an advantage over the intruders.

The traditional buildings are made of wood, whether a modest dwelling or one of the grandest castles or temples.  Walking in Kanazawa, there is a feeling of walking between buildings trapped in time made more characterful by the streams that pass along at the bottom of the walls.

(Click on photos to enlarge and see proper aspect) 

  • Entry gate to Kanezawa Central Station